For Your Table
Cantonese Steamed Whole Fish
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Use your head
Get the whole story on how to prepare fish
by SCOTT JONES
Mention cooking a whole fish and the intimidation factor goes through the roof. It shouldn’t, though. Whether you’re looking for a quick weeknight dinner or something to make for a special weekend gathering, preparing a whole fish is easy.
Cooking meat on the bone is a long-standing chef’s secret to promote even cooking and retain moisture. According to Hunter Evans, the chef and owner of Elvie’s in Jackson, Mississippi, whole fish is no different. “Using a whole fish guarantees it’s fresh, and there’s no question the result is a more moist, flavorful fish,” he explains.
Big fish
If you’re a newbie, look for round, firm-fleshed fish. Alabama-based Costco member Rebecca Treadwell Lyons, head of culinary development at eMeals, recommends branzino (also known as European sea bass), tilapia or trout.
Nelson and Liz Cardoso of Ontario, Canada, who are Costco members and food bloggers at Photosandfood.ca, recommend using approximately 10 to 15 ounces of uncooked whole fish per person.
Fish to fry
Whole fish can be cooked using a variety of methods, including grilling, poaching, roasting and frying. First-timers, however, may prefer to start with broiling or baking. “Honestly, it’s way easier and faster than cooking bone-in chicken,” says Lyons, adding, “The potential variations for vegetables, fruit, herbs and spices are practically limitless.” She notes that whole fish are ideal for Mediterranean and Asian flavors.
Starting with a cleaned fish, score both sides of the fish two to four times. The goal is to just cut the skin, so go easy. Season with salt and pepper inside and out, then drizzle with olive oil.
Loosely stuff the belly with combos such as fresh thyme, chopped garlic and sliced lemons; fresh dill, cherry tomatoes and Kalamata olives; or green onions, sliced ginger and sliced limes. Lay things like sliced citrus, fennel branches or rosemary sprigs on top of or under the fish while cooking for even more flavor.
When it comes to heat, Evans says smaller fish can handle higher temperatures—450 F to 500 F. On the other hand, larger fish need more time to cook, so lower the temp to 375 F to 400 F to ensure the meat cooks through without burning the skin.
Check for doneness near the thickest part behind the gills and away from the backbone. The meat right on the bone should look slightly undercooked. Now’s the time to remove the fish from the heat, as the residual heat will continue cooking the fish while it rests. (The U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends an internal temperature of 145 F.)
As for toppings, everything from compound butter to fresh salsa works. Feel free to keep it simple, too. A drizzle of high-quality extra-virgin olive oil, a squeeze of citrus and a big pinch of sea salt make the perfect finishing touch.
School of fish
Whole fish is often available scaled and gutted. If it is not, using the back of a knife, scale the fish from the tail to the head. Gut the fish by making a shallow cut from the vent hole along the belly to just behind the head. Remove the viscera and scrape out the bloodline membrane that runs along the back-bone. Remove the spiny fins with kitchen shears, but leave the tail. Next, cut out and remove the gills. Finally, rinse the fish under cool water, then pat dry inside and out.—SJ
Liesa Cole
Scott Jones (@JonesIsThirsty) is a Culinary Institute of America graduate and wine education specialist living in Alabama.
Costco Connection: A variety of whole fish are available in the Costco meat department. Groceries are available for delivery through Costco Grocery at Costco.com.