Tahitian tranquility on Bora Bora.
Courtesy St. Regis Bora Bora

Tahitian treasures

Tahiti and her islands will stimulate and soothe your senses

by JIM BYERS

Few places in the world conjure up as strong a mental image as Tahiti.

The food is a magical mix of French and South Pacific cuisines, the hotels are as decadent as a triple hot fudge sundae and the water comes in colors the crayon people haven’t even invented. You’ll also find a warm and welcoming culture that embraces visitors from around the world.

Tahiti is great for honeymoons, but it’s also wonderful for families and soft-adventure lovers, and it can be surprisingly affordable.

Here’s a look at some of my favorite places, activities and, of course, food.

Bora Bora

An overwater bungalow in Tahiti is sheer magic, with views of craggy, green Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia rising out of the crystal-clear Bora Bora lagoon. One of the great activities here is a cultural lagoon tour, which will allow you to swim with manta rays and harmless blacktip sharks, paddle a Tahitian canoe and enjoy a shady, homemade lunch.

Casual Bloody Mary’s restaurant (think open air, with sand on the floor) has been attracting Hollywood A-listers and sports celebrities for decades. The fish of the day can be expensive, but you can also grab a burger and a beer.

Tahiti Island

The main island of Tahiti is home to the capital, Papeete. Head south to the quiet peninsula called Tahiti Iti (Little Tahiti), where you can go on half-day water tours of the peaceful southern section of the island. You’ll glide over stunning blue water and check out sensational surfing spots (the surfing competition for the 2024 Paris Olympics will be held here) and towering, spiky green mountains. You can also find tours of the rugged, almost entirely deserted Papenoo Valley, home to lush jungle growth, sweet-smelling flowers and sparkling waterfalls.

Moorea

You can take a short ferry trip from Papeete to beautiful Moorea. Try renting a moped and do an around-the-island tour of your own, checking out homes and elegant overwater bungalow resorts, as well as the jagged peaks that rise over serene Cooks Bay.

Tahaa

Tahaa is known around the world for its vanilla farms. You can hire a local guide to take you on a tour of fertile valleys and vanilla plantations, where you learn how vanilla plants have male and female parts that have to be pushed together (they call it a “marriage”) before the vanilla pod can begin growing.

One of the delectable dishes at Raiatea’s Fish & Blue restaurant.
courtesy of jim byers

Raiatea

This beautiful, low-key island is great if you want a taste of old Tahiti, with no big resorts, about 13,000 residents and virtually no traffic. Fish & Blue restaurant serves excellent sushi and seafood, and the decor is like a dreamy, upscale beach house.

The south end of the island is home to Marae Taputapuatea, the remains of an old Polynesian temple area that’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Huahine

This island (technically two islands separated by just a few feet) is a great place to get away from it all. Take a hike through the thick, green forests or hit a local market in one of the eight small villages for fresh island bananas, melons and vanilla. Huahine Chez Tania is a fun, casual spot for barbecue on a warm, sunny day.

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