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Exploring mezcal

This agave spirit has a multitude of flavors

by Chad Sokol

Earth, smoke, granite, tobacco, leather, chocolate, grass, honey, lemon—all can describe the multitude of flavors found in mezcal.

Mezcal, according to the website Advanced Mixology, comes to us from the Aztec word mexcalmetl, which translates to “oven-roasted agave plant.” The popularity of this distilled beverage has skyrocketed, making it one of the fastest-growing spirits in the U.S.

What exactly is mezcal, and why is it becoming so popular?

Just as bourbon is a category within whiskey, tequila is a subset of mezcal. In fact, any spirit distilled from the agave plant can be called mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. More than 30 varieties of agave can be used in the production of mezcal, although espadín, from the Mexican state of Oaxaca, is the most common source.

Tequila, on the other hand, must be distilled specifically from blue agave, which is native to the Mexican state of Jalisco and surrounding regions. The region in which agave can be grown for mezcal is much larger than the area where blue agave thrives.

This, along with the fact that cultivated and wild agave can be used in mezcal, helps contribute to the spirit’s many unique flavorful characteristics.

Mezcal is commonly referred to as a smoky version of tequila. Although that may be true, that description is also limiting as mezcal can also have fruity, herbal and vegetal notes. The production methods to make mezcal help contribute to its smokiness. The piña (core) of the agave plant is traditionally roasted in underground pits heated by wood or charcoal. In contrast, the piñas used for tequila are steamed in ovens before being fermented into alcohol.

Among the reasons for mezcal’s popularity is its versatility; it can be substituted for whiskey, bourbon or tequila in mixed drinks, such as an old fashioned, a margarita or a sour. My preference is to drink mezcal neat (without ice, water or a mixer). However you enjoy this distilled spirit, one thing is for sure: Artisanal and premium brands continue to grow in strength.